There are a a very select few wines in this fine country that I like to call “Holy Grail” wines – wines that are made in small quantities, sold only by mail order to a select lucky few, who pass on their hallowed place on the mailing list from generation to generation like MCC life member tickets. Wines by producers such as Noon’s, Wendouree, and Australia’s first boutique winery – the legendary Lake’s Folly. The Lake’s Folly Cabernet is indeed legendary, in part because the great Dr Max Lake had no business producing such a good Cabernet from the Hunter Valley, but mostly because it’s a cracking bloody red, and so hard to get your hands on. Only 3000 odd cases are made, and all of them go to the lucky buggers on the mailing list – which includes most of the 3 hat restauranteurs from Sydney and Melbourne, including Tetsuya’s. Despite a few decent attempts, in all my wine life I’ve not managed to get hold of one, and so I was determined not to leave the Hunter on our Road to Vino tour without having tried one.