You’ve got your croissants, your éclairs, your macarons. Maybe a madeleine if you’re Proust-y. They’re good, yes. But consider the canelé. On assignment for Afar magazine, Tasting Table San Francisco editor Scott Hocker traveled throughout France in search of the best. Stateside, his canelé of choice is at Boulettes Larder. Chef Amaryll Schwertner’s dedication to these custard-cake hybrids is unparalleled: She only makes a dozen a day, so each one has to be perfect. Hocker gathers some of her secrets, including an unexpected use of beeswax.