f your goal is to spot Hollywood’s A-list of celebrities, make a reservation at Koi, the current fave of L.A.'s glam scene: George Clooney, Jennifer Garner, the Osbournes, Madonna, Demi and Ashton, Liv Tyler, J.Lo, Jessica Simpson, Nick Lachey, Martin Lawrence — they've all been patrons. Or just make a reservation because the food is so wonderful (overpriced, but wonderful). Either way, you won't be disappointed. Incorporating feng shui elements of trickling water, votive candles, open-air patios, and soft lighting, the minimalist earthen-hued interior has a calming ambience that is a welcome relief from the hectic Melrose scene just outside the ornately carved gates. The chef's brilliant fusions of Japanese and Californian cuisine accounts for the repeat clientele. Start with the refreshing cucumber sunomono tower flavored with sweet vinegar and edible flowers, followed by a baked crab roll with edible rice paper (fantastic), the tuna tartare and avocado on crispy wontons, the yellowtail carpaccio delicately flavored with grapeseed oil, and the house specialty of black cod bronzed with miso that's warm-butter soft and exploding with sweet flavor. -Frommer's Review