When it came to this particular collection, Raf Simons wanted to make a very strong statement about who Raf Simons is (the brand not the man) and what it stands for. It’s very clear from the referencing of traditional menswear - in this case the chain, the stripe, the check or plaid and intarsia knitwear - what it means to him. The whole thing was deliberately clean, and we clocked things like the relatively straightforward trouser, coat and top (nothing gimmicky like a sandal that transforms into a boot). But this isn't to say that Simons didn't play around with the archetypes - take for instance the classical Derby shoes which had chunky chains on top of the welt, or the checks that were cut on the bias and slashed and re-inserted with contrasting directions - they may be traditional in their origins but you can be sure they had been given a modern twist. Simons has become one of the most original and competent colourists (you only have to look around to see how many people are wearing the acid bright colours he introduced at Jil Sander this summer), so it's no surprise that alongside plenty of black, what stood out was the mix of white, orange, lemon and lilac. Watch arguably one of the most powerful finales of the season.