When Martha was growing up in Nutley, New Jersey, her grandmother often made a Polish version of stuffed cabbage leaves called golabki. The filling was a simple one — rice and meat with onions, garlic, celery, cloves, and green apple -- but the dish was as tasty as it was comforting. Served with a hot tomato sauce and creamy sour cream, it’s a perfect meal for the winter season.  Cabbage is often dismissed as too odorous and not particularly tasty. But these problems result from overcooking; when cabbage is cooked, its oils break down, imparting a sulfur smell. Cooking cabbage in aluminum pots can make the problem worse; aluminum reacts poorly with the oils. The key to cooking and enjoying cabbage is to give the vegetable a light steaming; this will be sufficient to bring out its brilliant color and preserve its nutritional content.